Posted Fri, Jul. 26, 2002

quick bites
A good catch

THE CUISINE: Mediterranean

THE HITS: First, kudos to our waiter, who was attentive without being overbearing. We began with the mixed appetizer plate ($14.95 for two), featuring fresh jumbo shrimp sautéed in lemon-Dijon sauce; meaty and juicy wood-roasted portobello mushrooms; and smoked salmon bruschetta with roma tomatoes, mozzarella and a drizzle of dill pesto, a combination that appealed enormously to both my dining companion and me, though neither of us has salmon-loving palates.

The Mediterranean salad (small, $6) is a perfect mélange of romaine lettuce, tomatoes, cucumbers, black olives, peppers and goat cheese in a herbed red-wine vinaigrette; the blue cheese salad (small, $7) was equally tasty and featured grilled artichokes, tomatoes, sugar and spice walnuts, and, of course, blue cheese, all on a bed of lettuce.

We could have (and probably should have) stopped eating right there and jumped straight to dessert, a rich toasted-hazelnut brownie with white chocolate gelato ($5) and fresh strawberries served on angel cake that was light - but perhaps too light to hold the berries massed on it with maple sour cream sauce ($5). Also worth noting is a nice wine list, if a bit pricey.

THE MISSES: Entrees were good, but not exceptional. My friend had the mixed seafood grill ($14.95) with trout, halibut and shrimp, while I tried to tackle paella ($16.95). While the dish featured tender roasted chicken, spicy sausage and fresh shellfish, it was drenched in a rich tomato saffron sauce that, by this point in the dinner, was simply too much.

Ambience was generally pleasant, though my dining companion threatened to shoot the piano player and aptly noted that the downside of having a great restaurant at the corner of a busy parking lot is that there's not a whole lot of view to admire.

THE PARKING: Shouldn't be a problem. The restaurant is perched at the end of a Tom Thumb strip center parking lot.

THE DETAILS: Open 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Sunday-Friday; 5 p.m.-midnight Saturday. Full bar; smoking at bar; major credit cards; wheelchair accessible.

- Catherine Newton