Return engagement

RESURRECTION: For a while it looked as if North Dallas' venerable, dependable PoPoLos bistro would implode with the FoodStar Restaurant Group late last year.  But original owner Maury Jaffer teamed with Stevan Hammond to purchase the spot in November and persuaded original executive chef Los Akins to man the kitchen.  Along with former maitre'd Louis Bougazelli and general manager Fudge Cauilan, PoPoLos Preston-Royal - the original, first opened in 1994 - returned in early March, and quickly achieved fine pre-clone form.

REFOCUSED: The old/new staff's goal was to reinstate PoPoLos' Italian-Mediterranean roots, both in feel and food.  The wood-burning oven and hickory grill from the bistro's early days have returned, ready to fire up the gourmet pizzas, meats and veggies of North Dallas of yore.  The interior underwent a light revamp as well.  Whitewash and brick still dominate, with several terraced dining areas, expansive windows and a square island bar ready for socializing.

RECLINED: Regulars never dined at PoPoLos for cutting-edge chic, though.  It's cozy, familiar, coddling, classy and unassuming.  The clientele - a mix of Park Cities elite, younger yuppies and the occasional newcomer - is the most interesting fixture.  Other than food, of course, which has become first priority again.

REFORMED: The menu, which never changed drastically even after ownership and chef switches, has evolved into a lineup with elements to please anyone.   Vegetarian and light appetizer and salad options remain from the FoodStar days, while the pastas, pizzas, risotto and entree specialties incorporate all major meats, from beef and seafood to lamb and turkey.  The wine list is equally user-friendly, though a mite pricey, with many recognizable labels mixed with more adventurous selections.

AT LUNCH: Beware of slow service at lunch; this is not a one-hour-meal kind of place.  Even so, we hardly noticed the time passing. The house soup, vegetable minestrone ($2.75 cup, $4 bowl), proved fragrant and sturdy, while a Caesar salad ($5.95, $3 extra for chicken and $4 more for catch of the day) impressed us with its anchovy tinge and herbed croutons.  The tart olive-caper-pepperoncini relish on the grilled chicken-eggplant muffuletta ($8.95) dominated the sandwich, served on focaccia, though fresh mozzarella and smooth breast slices admirably compensated.  Pan-seared chicken piccata with spinach and mashed potatoes ($10.95) looked and tasted mild.

AT DINNER: Evening service was the same as at lunch; laid-back, courteous and competent, but no more.  Calamari arrabiata ($8.95) combined heavily breaded calamari with cherry peppers and pepperoncini.  It was set aside quickly to graze on the stunning combo appetizer ($14.95), with sublime smoked salmon brushetta, wonderful lemon-Dijon sauteed shrimp, burgerlike roasted portobellos and lovely baby greens.  Smoked-chicken and portobello lasagna ($12.95) arrived as a signature 10-layer cylindrical stack instead of flat in a pan. 

THE ORIGINAL ARTICLE: Executive chef Los Akins displays chicken with saffron rice and roasted garlic.